Rabbit Care
Rabbits are easy to care for, but they have some needs that are specific to their species. Bellow find some information on basic rabbit care that will help you get started. If you have additional questions, please feel free to contact us!
Feeding
Young rabbits do well with a higher protein food, but all rabbits should be fed a quality pellet that is designed to meet their nutritional needs. Rabbits do not do well with corn, so avoid food or treats that include corn. Because pellets are largely made of alfalfa hay, rabbits get all they need in a pellet and should not be fed additional alfalfa hay. They do benefit from free access to Timothy or grass hay, however.
When you purchase a rabbit from Renewed Roots Ranch, you will be given a gallon bag full of your rabbit's current food (Purina Professional 18% or Purina Complete 16%), along with information as to what brand and % protein they are eating. Most rabbits can be fed either one cup a day, or, if you prefer and their weight remains reasonable, they can be free fed. Some rabbits (under 8 weeks old, pregnant and nursing does, and grow-outs for meat rabbits) need to be free fed.
Any change to a rabbit's diet should be made very slowly. If a rabbit has been moved to a new environment, allow them several days to adjust without making any changes to their food. Then, begin by mixing in a very small amount of their new food. For example, if the rabbit is eating one cup of pellets per day, offer 1/8th of a cup of the new food (and 7/8ths the existing food) for 4 days, then 1/4 cup of the new food for 4 days, then 1/2, then 3/4 until they are fully on their new food.
Some rabbits (kits under 8 weeks old, heavily pregnant and nursing does) do well with a supplement to their regular diet. At Renewed Roots Ranch, we use a blend of rolled oats (grocery store oats are fine, as long as they are not quick oats or flavor added) and black oil sunflower seeds (BOSS). This adds protein and fats, which is beneficial, but should be done in careful moderation. We generally use 1/2 teaspoon per rabbit per day (a doe with a litter of kits that are also eating the supplement will be given more, usually 1/2 cup to allow everyone a chance. For pet rabbits, this can be an occasional treat, so long as their body condition remains appropriate. Overweight rabbits can be prone to a host of problems.
Fruits and vegetables can be given in moderation, as long as they are added to their diet very slowly. Remember, rabbits are small creatures and their digestive tract is very sensitive. Huge changes can be deadly. So, if you are adding fruits and vegetables, start with a tiny bit of one thing at a time.
A guide to appropriate fruits and veggies for rabbits can be found here. Amounts can be slowly increased. Don't forget to be aware of the sugar content in fruits. Even if they are used to blueberries and strawberries, they should be fed in small amounts and only occasionally, or your rabbit will likely gain too much weight.
Breeding
Coming Soon: Determining the difference between males (bucks) and females (does), age to first breed, keeping does and bucks in good condition, always bring the doe to the buck's cage, what a "fall off" is, gestation period, nesting boxes and behavior, etc.
General Care
General care of rabbits includes grooming, basic health care, and more.
Caring for your rabbit means ensuring they are groomed, healthy, safe and have proper enrichment (hey kids, enrichment means keeping their brain busy and making sure your bunny can perform natural behaviors, like chewing and hopping around).
When you first bring your new rabbit home, they will be scared and overwhelmed. Keep other pets away at first (and always do careful, safe introductions). Provide clean, fresh water, Timothy hay and the food they are currently eating at the Ranch. Then give your bunny (or bunnies!) time to settle in. That means limited (if at all!) petting or holding. After several hours to a day, start introducing yourself with slow pets on the head. After some time you will notice your rabbit is getting more comfortable with you. Make sure you pet and hold them plenty at that point, so they stay comfortable!
Holding a rabbit is best done initially on your lap. That keeps them feeling secure. When you are standing up, make sure you keep their back end supported. If the rabbit is acting scared, cover their eyes with you hand. Picking a rabbit up by the scruff of their neck is not ideal, and can cause pain or injury if not done properly. NEVER pick a rabbit up by their ears.
Most rabbits do a good job of grooming themselves, cleaning their own coat to keep it healthy. Rabbits with longer hair need regular brushing. They should be acclimated to this when they are young, but if they haven't been, work on it slowly. A slicker brush is a good, general purpose brush.
All rabbits will eventually need a nail trim. This can be done with human or pet nail trimmers. If you are uncomfortable trimming nails yourself, we recommend you find a groomer or veterinary professional to do the nail trim.
Rabbits DO NOT do well with bathing. If there is an urgent and important need to bathe your rabbit, such as something stuck in their fur that can't be brushed out, use a small amount of warm water and a gentle shampoo designed for pets, and wash only the affected area.
Supplies
Options for Supplies:
Local Feed & Timothy Hay:
Northern Colorado Feeder's Supply
Related Supplies:
Rent a Coop, small bottle (water bottle)
Rent a Coop, large bottle (water bottle)
Rabbit toys:
Housing
How you house a rabbit depends largely on how you will live with your rabbit. Fortunately, rabbits can live happily and comfortably in quite a wide range of housing options, as long as some basic safety requirements are met.
If your rabbit is living inside your home as a pet, they can live in a cage or even have a room or rooms that are rabbit-proofed and set up for them to cohabitate with you. Rabbits can be trained to use a litter box, so, unlike many other small animals, they can live cleanly in an area of your home. Some people chose to create an enclosed space in a room, utilizing a pen, a litter box and some form of comfortable resting/hiding space. Here are some ideas of indoor enclosures to get you planning.
There are also a variety of hutches and cages for indoor rabbits. Keep in mind that while many of these look very decorative, cleaning should be a high priority. As popular as it is for rabbit housing, wood can (and will) be chewed, and urine soaks into wood like a sponge. Ventilation is also very important for rabbits, as their respiratory system is sensitive. If you are going to use bedding in any portion of the enclosure, DO NOT use cedar, in chips, shavings or any form. While it is a pleasant smelling wood to people, it can cause significant problems for bunnies.
If you opt to keep your rabbit in a wire-bottom cage, where the droppings will fall through to a tray or other setup, ensure that the cage construction is appropriate. The bottom wire MUST be 1" by 1/2" and a minimum of 14 gage.